Home Movie Film Preservation
The contents provided on this page are not recommendations by Home Movie Depot, but rather are techniques used by some for film handling and storage. We strongly recommend visiting The Association of Moving Image Archivists for expert advice on how to preserve your home movies.
Preparation
LABELING
It goes without saying that labeling your film is good practice. If possible, use archival pens, which may be found at art supply stores. Any special information that pertains to your film should be included on the label.
LEADER
All film should be stored with leader material. If your film does not have leader Home Movie Depot will add leader to
your film free of charge with any transfer. Damaged leader should be replaced before storage. Avoid overfilling
any reel with film. This helps protect the film during both storage and projection.
CANS and BOXES
Cans and boxes should be treated so that they do not chemically react with the film. If this is done it does not matter
if the boxes are plastic, metal or even cardboard. Make sure that your box or can is not airtight. Closed cans and
boxes are acceptable but do not tape or otherwise seal your film unless you plan to freeze it. (see below) Vinegar
syndrome seems to be more common with film on metal reels as compared to plastic reels. The film should be gently
wound so it appears as one solid piece. A note for those with smaller reels of 8mm film. The smaller size of 8mm lends
itself to difficult handling. If you have 50 foot reels it is often a good idea to splice several into one larger reel
for storage. Remember to separate reels with leader for easier identification. Home Movie Depot will splice 50 foot
reels onto 7 inch 400 foot reels free of charge before transferring the film.
STORAGE
Do not store your films in plastic ziplock bags. Films need to "breathe" and need the oxygen exposure. It's fine (and recommended) to keep the films in plastic bags for short times, during activities like shipping or moving, to protect the film from handling damage. But, for the long term storage, plastic bags are not good. The lack of ventilation will will cause the film's rate of decomposition to increase.
If possible, store film where temperatures and humidity are steady. Lower temperatures and humidity are best for
storage.Film stored at room temp. may last up to 50 years before significant decomposition will occur. Colder
temperatures may markedly extend your films lifespan. Sufficient airflow is important to avoid mold, and it should be noted that extremely dry air may lead to brittle film.
FREEZING
Home Movie Depot has no experience with freezing film but it may be a viable alternative. The following technique
is not a recommendation, but is offered for your consideration.
Allow your film to adjust to room temperature. Make sure that the area that you are working in has a low relative
humidity. Generally it does not take a long time for film to adjust. In some cases it may take longer depending on how
humid an environment the film was stored in. It is important to monitor humidity before freezing takes place. It is
possible to trap water droplets in film that is frozen with too much moisture.
Step 1. Seal your cans or boxes making them as airtight as possible.
Step 2. Use heavy-duty freezer bags (3 mil or thicker).
Step 3. Seal the bags keeping air inside to a minimum.
Step 4. Label the bags clearly.
Step 5. Place in a secure location in the freezer.
THAWING
Thawing film gradually will reduce condensation. It is advisable to move frozen film to a refrigerator to thaw before
moving to room temperature. Larger amounts of film will require more time to thaw and thus will require more time in an
intermediate area before moving to room temp. Generally speaking a few hours should be acceptable for thawing your
film. It is advisable to leave film out to thaw for a minimum of an hour.
TIPS
Do not store film in attics. Temperatures vary greatly
Do not store film in direct sunlight
Avoid any locations near chemicals, paint, or exhaust. These can cause damage to film
Consider multiple locations for multiple copies (negatives, prints, duplicates) of films.
Do not throw away originals once Home Movie Depot has digitized your film. It is a good idea to store the originals in
a separate location from the digitized copies.
Common Problems and Warning Signs
CHEMICAL DAMAGE
Nitrate Decomposition
Cellulose nitrate film base will naturally deteriorate over time. The manner in which the film was originally stored
will dictate the current condition of the film.
There are 5 recognizable stages inherent to Nitrate Decomposition
Stage 1: There will be a faint unpleasant odor. Film will take on an amber hue with some image fading. In same cases
rust may appear in film canisters
Stage 2: Faint odor. Film may stick together due to emulsion breakdown
Stage 3: Odor becomes more apparent. Sections of the film are soft and will contain gas bubbles.
Stage 4: Strong odor is emitted. Film will be completely soft. In some cases a froth will cover film
Stage 5: Film will partially or completely decay into powder.
Acetate Decomposition: "Vinegar"
Acetate base film may succumb to the "vinegar" syndrome. This problem is characterized by a strong vinegar smell. This
is the most common indicator but not the only one. Vinegar syndrome is the product of a chemical reaction that can
cause very serious damage to film. Climate is an important component in the process as humidity and heat aid the
chemical reactions.
These are the most common stages
1. Strong vinegar smell
2. Shrinkage
3. Cupping: The film will not lie flat
4. Crazing: The emulsion deteriorates and the image takes on a mosaic pattern
5. Formation of white powder on edges
6. Film becomes square on reel
7. Film becomes brittle and the emulsion may flake from the base.
BIOLOGICAL DAMAGE
Mold, Mildew, Fungi
Film that is stored in damp or humid areas is more susceptible to mold, fungus and mildew. Unfortunately, the attic,
garage, and basement, common areas for film storage, are the most likely places for these organisms to occur. Emulsion
damage is common and sometimes the entire roll may be affected. It is not uncommon to have tendrils or dull areas on
the frames. Providing for ventilation and avoiding prolonged humidity will reduce the likelihood of this type of
damage.
Tearing
Tearing and breakage is usually the result of mishandling or negligence. Sometimes a faulty or worn out splice may
cause projector jams which may also damage film. or of old splices coming undone. It is important to immediately repair
tears with either splicing tape or cement.
Color Fading and Decomposition
Color fading and other forms of chemical decomposition are quite common. Usually these forms may come from poor
manufacturing of film, a sub standard storage environment, or even bad processing. There is little that can be done to
correct color fading, but care maybe taken to halt further damage.
Perforation Damage
Many times sections of the films perforations may tear or deteriorate. Most often this is caused by the film improperly
running through the projector. Most often you will find damage to the perforations at the start and end of a reel or
after poor splices. Using plenty of leader, monitoring the condition of splices and maintaining your projector all will
help to minimize this problem.
Scratches
Scratches can come from just about anywhere. It is possible for a projector if not properly maintained to cause
scratches or other damage. Usually carelessness is the primary culprit. It is also possible to scratch film if it is
too loose or too tight on the reel.
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