Archive for July, 2012

Storing and Sharing Your Memories Online

Tuesday, July 31st, 2012

Back in April, we posted a similarly titled article; however, today we’ll look at online file sharing options in a bit more detail. Email became the standard for electronic communication in 1993—the problem is that email providers only allow for attachments of very short videos or a limited number of photos. While you may be hesitant to upload your precious photos and videos to the World Wide Web, it is a more reliable place to store them than on a DVD that can be lost, or a computer file that can be corrupted. The Internet is omni-present, and while websites occasionally go down for maintenance, online file sharing sites offer invaluable tools for storing, editing, and sharing photos and videos.

Photo sharing sites

There are hundreds of photo sharing sites, with varying features and communities available. Some are free for the average consumer, some have a monthly membership fee and offer printing services along with editing software. Two of the most popular free photo sharing sites are Flickr and Photobucket. Both sites offer a free account option with a monthly photo upload limit, and a paid “Pro” account for $24.95 a year. The sites make it easy to share your photos—simply email the album link to your contacts, or post it to your Facebook. There are differences between the two sites, and it will come down to personal preference to decide which one is best for you—Flickr is generally considered to be simpler to use, while Photobucket offers more editing options.

Video sharing sites

Although there are dozens of free video hosting websites, the one that usually comes to mind first is Youtube. In fact, nowdays you may be hard-pressed to find someone who can name three video sites other than Youtube. However, Youtube now requires all new users to create a Google account in order to register for the site. For ease of use, Vimeo and Dailymotion have much simpler interfaces and you can create an account in minutes. Vimeo allows you to upload a video file without even having to name it—simply upload and email the link to your family and friends. Both sites also have privacy options that hide your videos from search engines and only allowing access to those that have the link.

Storing your photos online can free up computer space, since you can always download photos from your account when you want to order prints. Video hosting sites sometimes require a certain type of downloading software to download a posted video, so it’s best to keep your videos on a DVD for easy access. There are pros and cons for every image or video hosting site, so ask around for feedback from family or friends. Upload videos, share photos, experiment, and have fun!

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Intro to Macro Photography

Thursday, July 26th, 2012

When you were a child, did you ever go outside with a magnifying glass and marvel at the details of every bug and plant in your backyard? We human beings are driven by curiosity of what is not familiar to us. Macro photography is the art of magnifying subjects to photograph details not usually seen with the naked eye. Macro photography is what lets us exclaim over a close up of a moth’s antennae, patterns in the cracks of a patch of dried mud, or the veins in a dragonfly’s wing. Although macro photography is mostly done by professional photographers for magazines and textbooks, the amateur photographer can get started with a few simple tips and basic equipment.

Macro photography has made great advancements in the past thirty years. Before SLR(single lens reflex) cameras, there was only a viewfinder located on the top of the camera. When shooting an object at 25x magnification, a viewfinder is useless for viewing what the camera is focused on. SLR cameras use a mirror and prism system to allow the photographer to see the image that the lens will capture. Although now days most cameras have LCD screens to show the image, many photographers still prefer SLR cameras because the computer generated image of a LCD screen is generally less detailed than seeing the exact image on a SLR camera.

When shopping for a macro lens, the recommended focal length for a 35mm camera system is 90-105mm. For someone just venturing into macro photography, experimenting with supplementary lenses will be helpful. A supplementary lens screws onto the front of the primary lens to allow you to focus closer without having to readjust the autofocus or exposure. However, it is extremely important that you not buy the cheapest supplementary lens available or the resulting images will look like they’ve been taken through a pane of glass.

Two essential pieces of equipment for macro photography are the tripod and a cable release. At such high levels of magnification, any tiny movement of the camera will distort the image; even a breeze blowing through the leaves of the plant you’re trying to photograph will look like a wind storm is going through. As human beings, it’s nearly impossible not to move the camera a little while pressing the shutter, so it’s best to use a cable release.

The general rule of thumb for all photography is to shoot on overcast days to avoid shadows or glare. If you want to capture vibrant colors even on cloudy days, try using a film that accentuates warm color tones such as Fujifilm Velvia or Provia.

Although flash can cause a lot of shadow, photographers use small flash units to make subjects such as flower petals or insect wings more reflective. A roll of film for experimentation using a small handheld flash unit is plenty of opportunity to discover your method of lighting. A general recommendation is to hold the flash unit at a forty-five degree angle to the lens.

The world of macro photography is a complex and exciting one, with each photographer having their own advice and ways of doing things. It requires patience, and above all, a willingness to make mistakes and experiment. If you are interested in a more in-depth look at macro photography, I would like to recommend Paul Harcourt Davies’ book, The Complete Guide to Close-up and Macro Photography. There are plenty of bugs in your backyard; why not get acquainted and take their portraits?

 

 

 

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Photographing Pets

Thursday, July 19th, 2012

Our pets hold special places in our hearts; we remember our first pet, the time we got a kitten for Christmas, or when we gave a puppy to a child or grandchild. More often than not, pets end up becoming an integral part of the family, coming on vacation with us or sleeping at the foot of our bed. Why not do a special photo-shoot with your pet and permanently capture its growth and personality for sentiment’s sake in future years? Photographing a pet can be tricky, but it is also very fun and rewarding. Let’s look at some tips for photographing your pet, whether it be your child’s rabbit, a kitten, or your elderly dog.

1. Natural light is best for photographing a pet, as the flash feature on your camera tends to annoy or distract animals. Also, the red-eye effect you often see in photographs of animals is caused by the flash. Shooting in a well-lit room or outside is the best place for your photography session to avoid having to use flash.

2. Stalk your subject. Candid shots of animals are endearing, just as they are of children. Photographing your pet simply going about its business, without paying much attention to the camera is the best way to capture its personality and unique little habits. Rather than putting a great deal of effort trying to get your cat to look at the camera or to pose, why not try sneaking up on them and snapping a shot of your cat in mid-stretch? This works especially well with small, inquisitive animals such as hamsters and rabbits that simply want to try nibbling on the camera.

3. Pets usually don’t stay still for very long. To avoid getting blurry shots, shoot in “sports” mode or the highest shutter speed you can. This way your camera can react quickly and freeze your pet in mid-air as he jumps to catch a Frisbee, or runs toward the camera.

4. Get up close and personal. Play with camera angle, and don’t forget the magic of a good zoom lens. Don’t simply take photos of your pet looking up at you. Get down to their eye level and view them in their environment from their own perspective. Or, reverse the perspectives by shooting your pet looking down at you from the top of the stairs.

5. Take photos that reflect your pet’s personality and its relationship to the rest of the family. People love to see photos of big dogs and babies—why? The relationship of pet to owner is unique for every family. A candid shot of a child with their pet is sure to be treasured when the child is older.

Photographing animals is similar to photographing children; both require patience, and both make for a satisfying photo-shoot.  Utilize the above tips and you will be sure to come up with a pet portrait that you will treasure in future years.

 

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Pocket Camcorders

Tuesday, July 17th, 2012

With the advent of such video sharing sites such as Youtube and Dailymotion, the market for pocket camcorders has expanded greatly. More and more models are available every year; however, there is no camcorder that has “the works”. Each model has its pros and cons. Even if you have an expensive, top quality video camera, there will be times that portability and durability are of utmost importance. Let’s look at some pros and cons of pocket camcorders.

Pros:

1. They are fairly inexpensive. Basic candy bar style camcorders start at $80, while more sophisticated “pistol grip” camcorders with a wider range of features can be found in the $150-$200 range.

2. They are extremely durable. Pocket camcorders are designed to survive all types of rough treatment, including being dropped onto pavement, kicked through dirt, or knocked out of your hand and into a puddle. Camcorder LCD screens are usually scratch proof, so you can lay it on the ground without ruining your screen. Waterproofing allows most camcorders to be used underwater to depths of up to 10 feet.

3. They are very simple to use. One of the best things about pocket camcorders is their simple design. Most keep the numbers of buttons to a minimum, and menus are quick to navigate so you can start videoing at a moment’s notice.

4. Pocket camcorders are improving all the time. A few years ago, pocket camcorders offered very little in the way of image stabilization and resolution. Today, even basic camcorders record 720p and also offer decent zoom capabilities and low light performance.

Cons:

1. A small display screen means it’s more difficult to see what you’re filming. This makes it easy to cut someone out of the frame and harder to get steady video footage. Portability is the main objective of a pocket camcorder, so most display screens are only 2-2.5 inches.

2. Audio capabilities are somewhat lacking. Although resolution and image stabilization are getting better each year, it’s quite difficult to record good audio with a pocket camcorder. However, what you will be recording on a pocket camcorder will probably not require professional-quality audio, since you will most likely be close enough to your subject for decent audio.

 

3. There are not usually any bells and whistles on a pocket camcorder. Simplicity is usually the defining point of a pocket camcorder, so there isn’t usually much in the way of on-camera editing, or various shooting modes. “Point-and-shoot” sums up the way these camcorders are generally used.

Perhaps you want to shoot some footage, without lugging all your video equipment around, or without worrying about ruining it on a rainy day. Perhaps your child wants to make videos, but isn’t old enough to be trusted with your expensive camcorder. Perhaps you may find yourself in a situation where you want to be able to record footage at a moment’s notice without any fuss. It won’t take any professional quality videos, but for amateurs, kids, or the highly active person, it is definitely worth looking into today’s vast selection of pocket camcorders.

 

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The Monochrome vs. Color Debate

Thursday, July 12th, 2012

On Tuesday, we concluded the complex history of color photography from the earliest known color photo in 1850 to its omnipresence in today’s world. However, with the years of effort and trial and error experimentation, some photographers chose to stay with monochrome photography. Today, there are forums dedicated to the debate of whether color or monochrome photography is better from a technical or artistic standpoint. I remember as a young child, declaring to my mother that I wouldn’t watch old black and white movies because “that’s boring”.  However, when it comes to photography, oftentimes black and white has infinite charm over a color image. Here are some reasons that photographers prefer to shoot in monochrome:

1. Lighting is simpler. How many times have you fooled around with flash settings, camera angles, or even your light switches, trying to avoid over-exposure, or odd discolorations in your photos? In color mode, there are so many more factors that have to be taken into account to get an eye-pleasing image. In monochrome, shadows and bright spots each take on their own significance within the photo and instead of taking away from the composition, they can help to complete it.

2. Colors often clash with each other. Suppose you wish to take some photos of a subject in a field of flowers. One problem: the subject’s top matches the color of the flowers; she’s a head floating in a sea of purple petals. Monochrome brings everything into a unified palate of shadow and light.

3. The aesthetics of monochrome are undeniable. Of course, we see the world in color. Monochrome removes all the distraction of color and provides us a chance to see a person or place for itself. Many photographers believe that monochrome photography is the best way to capture a subject’s personality. Many different moods can be created with monochrome; high contrast shadows to create drama, or low contrast to create a calm atmosphere.

There are websites and companies that specialize in monochrome photography, and there are computer programs that are designed simply to convert color images into monochrome ones. “Monochrome” simply means “one color”, and generally refers to photographs in shades of black and white. However, mood and message can be radically emphasized by shooting images in all blue, red, orange, etc,. Why not try it for a day? Change your camera setting to black and white, sepia, or even green or purple. It’s all very well to take advantages of advancing technology, but don’t forget the charm of past eras. You may enjoy monochrome photography more than you anticipate.

 

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The History of Color Photography (Part 2)

Tuesday, July 10th, 2012

Last time, we talked about the early history of color photography. The journey of photography from black and white to colour was a long and arduous one. Some of the biggest advancements were made by the Kodak Company. Kodak was founded by George Eastman in 1889, and was the front runner of the photography business for much of the 20th century. George Eastman, with the invention of roll film and with Kodak’s first camera model, brought photography from an exclusively professional field into the hands of average people. Before the first Kodak camera, the average consumer did not own a camera; photographs were reserved for special occasions and taken by professionals.

In 1935, Kodachrome, the first commercial colour film, was introduced by Kodak. Kodachrome was invented by two well-known musicians, Leopold Godowsky and Leopold Mannes. It became a popular saying that Kodachrome was “invented by God and Man.” The film was sold at a price which included processing, so when you were done with a roll of film, you simply mailed it into the Kodak processing plant. The price of color film compared with black and white meant that most people continued to use black and white film until the 60’s.

In 1948, the Polaroid company came out with the instant camera, which created a developed image within a few minutes of pressing the shutter button. Edwin Land was inspired to create the instant camera after his daughter asked “Why can’t I see the pictures now?” Instant cameras were extremely popular immediately after their introduction; now you could see your picture and retake it if necessary, meaning less missed photo opportunities. Crime units also used them to take document evidence or crime scenes, as the instant camera produced an immediate image that could not be tampered with or altered during processing. In 1963, instant color film was marketed.

In the 1970’s, flash bulbs had been replaced by electronic flash units. Previously, shooting indoors or in shade was difficult, because color film had low light sensitivity. Prices began to go down, and by 1980, color film had nearly completely replaced black and white film. Now, in the digital age, Kodachrome has been discontinued and Fujifilm is the only supplier of instant film in the United States. Many photographers debate over the use of black and white vs. color film, or film vs. digital cameras. We’ll discuss the other side of these debates in the future. For now, that concludes our history of color photography.

 

 

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The History of Colour Photography (Part 1)

Thursday, July 5th, 2012

Do you remember a time before colour photography? Although colour film was not used by the general public until the 60′s, one of the very first colour photographs was taken as early as 1850! Levi Hill first discovered this complicated chemical process that produced a faded, yet distinct colour spectrum. His work was generally discredited until after his death when scholars proved that his process was indeed the result of a chemical process and not the result of hand-added dyes. Other experiments in the 1800’s had limited success; they were able to produce colour photos, but these faded after several hours or when exposed to sunlight.

The first real progress toward the colour processes we have today was realized in 1855 by James Clerk Maxwell, a Scottish mathematician and physicist. He suggested what is known today as the three colour method, a theory based on the way the human eye interprets light through three types of cone cells. Each of the three types of cone cells is more sensitive to certain colours of light; reds blues and greens.  It was discovered that any colour visible to the human eye could be created using a mixture of green, blue and red light.

Up until the 1890’s, colour photography was only attempted by those who had the time and money to create colour filters for themselves and go through trial-and-error to find the right exposures. Most people believed that colour photography was impossible. In 1898, two systems of colour photography became available to the public. The most popular of these was the Kromeskop, which produced colour images called Kromograms. The image was placed in a stereoscope, and then viewed through several glass filter that combined into a full colour image. Did you ever play with a stereoscope when you were a child?

The very early developments in colour photography were slow-going, often abandoned experiments. Colour photography was to remain at a standstill until the Kodak company made significant advancements in the 1930’s. Tune in next time to read about the role of two musicians, the Polaroid company, and electricity play in the history of colour photography!

 

 

 

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Photographing Fireworks

Tuesday, July 3rd, 2012

Happy 4th of July, from all of us at Home Movie Depot! Today, we’ll be discussing some tips to photographing all those glorious fireworks displays that will be taking place all across America tomorrow evening.

Although there can be quite a bit of guesswork involved, there are some methods behind the madness of photographing fireworks.  It is quite difficult to take full frame shots of fireworks; it is best to try for shots that include the horizon, of a general view of the scene. Be sure to turn your autofocus off, or else your camera will be constantly trying to re-adjust its focus. Also, it’s best to change your camera’s settings to infinity rather than close-up, since your camera will be zooming in an out against a black sky.

The general rule is that your shutter speed should be set to bulb, at which setting the shutter simply stays open for as long as you hold down the button. How long you keep the shutter open depends on the type of film you are using. According to photographer Garry Black, is you are using a film of ISO of 100, your shutter speed should be set to either 8 or 11. A film with an ISO of 50 would need a shutter speed of 5.6 or 8. Also, be sure to start off with a full roll of film to avoid having to switch it out halfway through the fireworks display.

If you are trying to get a shot of people with fireworks behind them, keep in mind that the longer exposure times will make any movement on the ground blurry. To get the best of both worlds, it is best to use an editing program like Photoshop to put two pictures together. Simply take a picture of your loved ones before the display starts; since the night sky is black, it is easy to place images of the fireworks into a separate photograph.

Possibly the most important piece of equipment to bring with you this 4th of July is a tripod. With such long exposure times, it is of extreme importance that the camera remain steady. Another suggestion to ensure clear photos is to use a shutter remote, like they do at photo studios, so that you don’t have to even touch the camera. Depending on the length of exposures, you may be able to get away with using a monopod, although it could be difficult to position the camera to point upwards.  A steady tripod, set up in advance of the display, is the safest bet.

Photographing fireworks is a tricky business; this is why you see so many appealing photographs in travel catalogues of the fireworks over Disneyland. It can take practice to figure out the right shutter speed and film to use, but if you follow the tips above, you may be well on your way to capturing tomorrow’s festivities. Who knows, maybe you’ll have realized your own technique in time for fireworks on New Years Eve!

 

 

 

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